The Dartmoor Way Walking Holiday

Ivybridge marks the official start and end of the Dartmoor Way for most walkers due to the fact that it there is, the train station here lying right on the London to Cornwall line making this the easiest and quickest location on the route for arriving and departing. Ivybridge is the walker’s entrance to the mighty Dartmoor National Park, The Dartmoor Way and the Two Moors Way.

 

Although the nearby manor of Stowford is documented in the Domesday Book, first mention of Ivybridge was in the 13th century when the small granite packhorse “Ivy Bridge” was the only means of crossing the River Erme. Still in use today it was immortalised in paint by non-other than Turner in 1813. You can still see the iron stave in the bridge wall which was lit at night to illuminate this vital crossing.

Ivybridge subsequently became an important staging post for carriages between Exeter and Plymouth for the next five hundred years until 1819 when other routes across the river became possible. This coincided with the Industrial Revolution, a growth of wool, corn and paper mills which together with the arrival of the railway brought jobs and expansion into the small town it is today.

 

Ivybridge’s position on the southern edge of Dartmoor National Park marks the beginning and connection for a number of walking trails, most importantly the start of the Dartmoor Way and the Two Moors Way but also the link with the Erme Plym Valley Trail to Wembury and the South West Coast Path in South Devon. 

 

There are a few B&B’s in the town and one large Inn, one or two more upmarket country house hotels are found in the nearby villages. The main shopping area of Fore Street has a number of independent businesses and evening meals can be found at any one of the six pubs or alternatively at a choice of restaurants from Indian and Greek to fish and chips.

 

A pleasant town, population 2,800, that sits at the foot of the Moor with a resonable range of facilities to make it a good overnight stop for those who want to split the long day between Ivybridge and Buckfastleigh. To reach it there is a gentle half mile walk off the Dartmoor Way route at Lydia Bridge following the peaceful river Avon into the town through the broadleaf trees to emerge at the impressive 12th Century Norman Church of St Petroc's

 

In the town itself well appointed cottages mix with pretty displays of flowers and a handful of shops, cafes - including The Station House  and a couple of pubs the best known being the Pack Horse Inn,  so you have everything you need for a restful night in the lowlands!

 

Based in the lush valley surroundings of the lower Dart River and holding a good selection of accommodation and plenty of attractions Buckfastleigh serves its arriving and departing visitors well.

 

Most famous for its Benedictine Abbey at Buckfast, which was founded in 1018 by King Canute, and mentioned in the Domesday Book before becoming a place of peace for the monks of a Cistercian Monastary in 1148. That peace ended when it was "dissolved" by Henry VIII in the Reformation.  Set just outside the town, the present buildings are well worth visiting set in stunning location on the River Dart - a favourite spot for the forest deer.  The modern parts were constructed by a handful of French Benedictine monks in 1932 and Buckfastleigh Abbey now funds itself by the production of stained glass, honey and their own recipe of tonic wine. The gardens are well worth exploring and are based on a Medieval design that includes purple lavender gardens and a sensory water garden intended to stimulate the senses of sight, smell, hearing and touch.

 

It's location, at the convergence of two streams on the River Dart, was ideal for the development of industry due to the running water, and the town grew during Middle Ages. At one time it was the principal wool manufacturing town in Devon, with over 7 mills, as well as being a major staging post between Plymouth and Exeter.

The Dartmoor Way route notes give details about the fascinating and eerie remains of its Church and Chapel on the hill above the town, which sits above a network of prehistoric caves and forms part of the first days walk.

 

Today the Town provides a range of accommodation options for the walker from small B&B's to welcoming Inns including The Abbey Inn, which has easy access for visiting the Abbey as well as a pleasant terrace beside the river if the weather is good enough to eat outside. The town with its narrow streets and tiny areas of park is a pleasing place to wander through with a reasonable set of shops including cafe's, tea shops, a chemist and three pubs. Don't get confused by The Valiant Soldier however if you do need a drink - this was a pub which closed in the 1960s and the place has now been frozen in time for the visitor, untouched (even down to the change in the till and a jar of pickled eggs on the bar) and left as a museum of that era, its old pub games, furniture and decor a fine record of a time now gone. The Tourist Information point is here and it's well worth a quick visit before heading off for the Moor.

 

For more leisurely pursuits there is an excellent outdoor lido and heated public swimming pool beside picturesque Victoria Park that is popular with residents and visitors alike during the summer season. If you missed seeing any wild otters on the Dartmoor Way then you can make up for it at the Butterfly Farm and Otter Sanctuary right beside the Steam Railway - here you can get a close view of the otters swimming underwater in specially built glass enclosures.

 

If you have a rest day here you can travel on fully restored steam trains alongside the pretty River Dart to Totnes a pleasant place of independent shops and cafes.  Trains leave from Buckfastleigh Station, a fascinating time capsule in its own right with its preserved ticket offices and platforms straight out of the last Century. There is a small Museum here and interesting displays along with a railway cafe that serves the moorland walker well.  For more details see South Devon Steam Railway who run a regular service several times a day from Buckfastleigh to Totnes

Another self-proclaimed gateway town to Dartmoor, this time the eastern entrance, Bovey Tracey sits in a wide valley below some of Dartmoor National Parks most iconic Tors at Haytor and Hounds Tor, and is therefore a very walker friendly place.

Its major historical events surround the Civil War, with Oliver Cromwell surprising the Royalist troops here who were supposed to be guarding the town, but were too busy drinking in the Riverside Inn. 

 

The Royalists were playing cards and only escaped by hurling the money out of the window and making good their getaway whilst the Roundheads scrabbled around for the loot.  It may have been an inspired move but it failed to help them much as Cromwell slaughtered them the next day at the Battle of Bovey Heath.  

 

The towns more modern industrial roots lie in its Mills on the powerful River Bovey and the potteries which flourished because the local clay deposits made raw materials immediately accessible. The bottle kilns are still here and are now listed buildings. The Church is also an indication of the wealth Bovey once enjoyed with fine carvings. although it was, in fact, built as a penance by the local knight, Sir William de Tracey. In 1170 he was one of the infamous four who hacked to death Archbishop Thomas a Beckett on the High Altar of Canterbury Cathedral on King Henry II’s command - one of the most notorious acts in English History. However the locals of Bovey did not feel much shame at this terrible crime and they added the name of “de Tracey” to that of Bovey, where it has remained ever since.

 

There are a handful of teashops (including The Flying Pig Coffee Shop) along with several Inns and Hotels serving food and Royal Gurka Spice a very popular Indian restaurant. 

 

For other needs the town has a chemist, deli with an impressive selection of West Country cheeses,  cash machines and a small walking equipment shop . For those who want a refreshing dip at the end of the walk here then right on the Dartmoor Way as you arrive there is the excellent Bovey Tracey Open Air Swimming Pool where you can take a plunge in the heated waters whilst looking up to the heights of Dartmoor above.

Well worth visiting as you cross the old bridge into town on the Dartmoor Way is Make Southwest - formally the Guild of Craftsmen, the largest contemporary craft centre in the South West. Housed in a former mill, there are regular exhibitions as well as products from around 250 South West based artists and craft makers. The Terrace Cafe here has rooftop seating with good views across the town and also offers meals cooked with local ingredients including farm cider.

Yet another inspiring and energising Dartmoor Town many walkers comment on how Moretonhampstead is one of the friendliest and most welcoming overnight locations on the Dartmoor Way - perhaps due to its rather isolated location set at the North East corner of the moor.

The name comes from a Saxon word “Mortun” meaning  ‘enclosed piece of land near the moor’ whilst the Hampstead is from one of the many Lords of the Manor. 

 

Moretonhampstead’s  location is almost exactly in the centre of the county of Devon and it has always been an important stop for travellers at the crossroads of the two roads which cross the moor. This would no doubt account for the incredible 18 public houses listed as open here in the 18^th century. Then it was a busy town supporting paper, tannery and tallow works as well as the cloth mills.

 

A great fire in 1845 destroyed all but a few of the buildings but did leave the impressive 15^th Century church of St Andrews  which stands proudly against the moor at one end of the village. There is a set of unusual almshouses, two-storey granite buildings now owned by the National Trust. Both are well worth a wander to from the centre of town.

 

Today, Moretonhampstead has become a bit of a centre for craftsmen and artists and because of this there are many fine sculptures of local moorland wildlife around the town to spot including sheep and Dartmoor ponies 'grazing' in Pound Street and mice and owls decorating the town's railings.

 

From a wall in the town square you will see a flying sculpture of what has become the towns emblem, the sparrowhawk, which represents the time when King John granted the town its charter in the thirteenth century and set the rent at one sparrowhawk per year. 

There are a several good inns here providing accommodation and food for walkers as well as some excellent B&B’s.  

 

The town is justifiably proud of its refurbished Green Hill Arts Gallery which is in the old Victorian Schoolhouse and holds contemporary art and heritage displays. As with all these East Dartmoor Towns there is also a welcome outdoor swimming pool, heated this time by solar power and open to all....including dusty walkers arriving from North Bovey.

 

The helpful Tourist Information Centre is situated right on The Dartmoor Way, with a comprehensive range of books, maps and guides. There are a choice of “moorland” tea shops and cafes and generally the towns amenities, including a chemist and supermarket can provide whatever else may be needed by the passing walker.

Don’t be fooled by the unassuming appearance of this pretty little village which sits on the remote western flank of Dartmoor – today it may only hold a handful of houses and a pub (population less than 500) but its place in Dartmoor History is one of huge significance.

 

This was one of Alfred the Great’s four principal settlements in Devon, built for defence against both the Cornish and the Vikings, who came this far inland to destroy the early Saxon castle in 997. A runic stone carved from local granite and sited in the field next to the castle commemorates the 1,000th anniversary of this Viking attack. Earthworks from the Saxon fortification are still visible and the ramparts within which the village still sits must have been huge.  No wonder, as Lydford was once the administrative centre of the whole moor and royal coins of King Aethelred were minted here, known as the “silver pennies of Lydford”.  The coins were used throughout the Kingdom of Wessex, and each silver penny represented one days work for a Saxon peasant.

 

Two castles were built on this site after the Norman Conquest, the first of which was the first castle to be built by William the Conqueror. Today what remains and is referred to as Lydford Castle,  is the later Norman Keep built in 1195 as a prison and used throughout the centuries to incarcerate petty criminals and those who broke the local stannary and forest Laws. According to the local poet in the 17^th century, this it was in fact little more than a centre for Injustice and corruption.

 

“I oft have heard of Lydford Law, How in the morn they hang and draw.....And sit in judgement after”

 

Indeed even by the official accounts this was a particularly horrible place to end up - an order of Parliament in Henry VIII’s time describes the prison as: “one of the most hanious, contagious and detestable places in the realm”. The court of law based here was used in the Civil War, its head being the notorious Judge Jeffreys, known as the “hanging judge”, and the prison was used to keep all military prisoners before being executed for High Treason.  The Dartmoor Way runs right past the ruins, which are open for all to enter and you can still see down to the dreary windowless dungeon where the hapless prisoners were held – the only access being a wooden ladder that was whipped back out as soon as the prisoners stepped off the bottom rung.

 

Today’s accommodation options are far improved – The 16^th Century Castle Inn is the main place to stay here with views over the Castle and Church  though there are also a couple of B&B options or the more upmarket Dartmoor Inn a former coaching Inn on the main Tavistock road.  

 

Next to the castle the Church is an impressive and pleasing 13^th century building dedicated to St Petroc the Cornish Saint - look for the famous set of wood carvings that form the ends of the pews. Each one is unique and shows a saint surrounded by animals and plants that include frogs, goats, rabbits and sea creatures.  The Churchyard is the end of the rather spooky Lych Way or Corpse Trail also referred to as “The Way of the Dead”.  An ancient path worn by those living on the remote high moor who were required to carry the coffins of any deceased persons up to 17 miles over the high moor passing the likes of “Coffin Wood” on a sombre journey to Lydford Castle to report the death and then the church next door for burial.

 

So far so grim for Lydford – however today it is a peaceful and interesting overnight stop and for Dartmoor Way walkers the main interest is that it allows access to the superb forested ravine at Lydford Gorge, managed by The National Trust and entered on the south of the village.  CLICK HERE to read about the 3 mile circular walk past whirlpools and 100ft waterfalls – it is not to be missed and is easy to build into the itineraries of those staying at Lydford.

On a week long walking holiday there is always one place that the weary walker can look forward to reaching as the best location on the route for facilities, accommodation and fine foods and on The Dartmoor Way this would be Tavistock. 

 

A vibrant and lively place Tavistock is Devon’s Premier Market Town with a population of around 11,000 and as such offers numerous good eating choices including delis, cafes, hotels and fine dining restaurants.  

 

Winner of awards for the UK’s “Best Market Town” and in Devon as the “Best Food Town” it is a time to indulge for those arriving for some rest and relaxation from the high moor and the single inn overnight villages.  With plenty of luxury B&B’s and guest houses, inns and smart hotels there is something to suit everyones needs in Tavistock.

 

The location in a wide green bowl at the point where the Tavy river leaves the moor is also fittingly attractive and has long been a draw for those who have held or sought the West Countries wealth and privilege. 

 

The important Tavistock Abbey was founded in the 10^th century by the Earl of Devon though it had an inauspicious start being burnt to the ground within 20 years when the Danes sailed up the river Tamar to make off with the riches inside.  It was quickly rebuilt however and became very wealthy very quickly with a Royal Charter granted in 1105 that included the legal rights to create the town including a weekly pannier market and 3-day long fair once a year. Both rights are still exercised 1000 years later with the Goose Fair in October still going strong and the daily Pannier market the major feature of the Town.

 

The towns Market used to be held in Bank Square but was moved in 1860 to the impressive stone-built covered Pannier Market and it has bustled with stalls, good food and the plain unexpected ever since.  Don’t miss a wander around this unique venue - whatever your fancy,  be it - old books, antiques, model aeroplanes or smart jeans - there is enormous variety and choice.  Outside the market there are plenty of art and craft galleries to wander around, both in the town and at The Wharf Arts Centre where you will often find live music, cinema, theatre and art exhibitions. The towns central point is the wide and airy Bedford Square built in 1859, with has the 15^th Century  Parish Church of St Eustachius (the Roman Officer who was martyred), sitting on one side and the Town Hall and other impressive administrative buildings on the other.  

 

The square has quite a European feel to it and the market often spills out here in rows of stalls outside the Town Hall.

You will also find the excellent Town Museum which houses displays on local history, mining and of course Sir Francis Drake, the most famous of Tavistock’s sons whose exploits and achievements are well documented here.

 

Sadly for the Abbey and its monks the good days ended with the Dissolution of the Monasteries during the reign of Henry VIII and most of it was destroyed. However ruined sections remain atmospherically dotted around Bedford Square and The Churchyard, a Court Gate, a ruined gatehouse and a section of cloister wall and tiled pavement – all adding to the sense of history and importance of the town. 

 

Some of the outer wall of the Abbey and the monks Stillhouse “ where medicines were distilled “ can also be found on the pleasant Abbey Walk river path which makes a great pre evening meal  wander along the gentle banks of the River Tavy. 

 

Last but not least if you are going to have one Devon Cream Tea on the Dartmoor Way then we think it should be here in its spiritual home - 11^th century manuscripts record that the monks at Tavistock Abbey fed travellers with bread, clotted cream and preserves – and in doing so invented the West Countries biggest ever industry and export - one that has outlived all the mines and the quarries!

 

Enjoy Tavistock and do refuel and stock up particularly if you are heading into the High Moorland Alternative route at Princetown tomorrow

 

 

Yelverton - 

One of the gateways to the Moor and the closest to the city of Plymouth. Yelverton sits on the last of the flat ground before the steep ascent of the main moor. As such enjoys great views of the vast green and brown landscape sitting above it. There has been habitation in this area since prehistoric times and  standing stones, stone circles, burial chambers and hut circles are all to be found in this area.

There is a pleasant area of open grassland on the edge of the village known as Roborough Down to wander through and you can easily find the well known Roborough Rock a prominent mass of stone which had to have a warning light placed upon it during the Second World War to stop planes hitting it as this area became a wartime airport. 

Known as RAF Harrowbeer it was quickly constructed on the down to defend the dockyards of nearby Plymouth as well as launch attacks on the French coast. There is still plenty of evidence of the former airfield, indeed Abagails Cafe operates out of former airfield buildings if you want a closer look !  There are several options for eating for those staying overnight including Chinese and Indian food but most people will head for the extensive 3 bars of the  Rock Inn in the centre of the village - as a port of call for Dartmoor explorers for over 100 years it only seems right to eat here !

A tiny, leafy off the track hamlet with a population of only 700 around half a mile above the Dartmoor Way route at Shaugh Bridge.

 

There is a good B&B option here and the White Thorn Inn for evening meals. The village and land here were originally part of the extensive estate of Plympton Priory and the villages St Edward Church is well worth a look. Grade 1 listed and dating back to the 11th Century it has a magnificent tower and plenty to see inside. Other than that there is little to do here except rest up in a peaceful place and pay a visit to the White Thorn !

If there is no availability here walkers will continue on the Dartmoor Way to the moor at Cadover Bridge, diverting over the moor to the village of Wotter, where you will find the Moorland Hotel with its Brasserie restaurant right on the edge of the moor.