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Westward Ho! to Padstow

The Atlantic Wreckers Trail

South West Coast Path Section 2  - 79 miles

Introduction to the Trail 

From the remote and windswept border of the ancient Cornish kingdom to the cosmopolitan bustle of Padstow's fishing harbour lies a magnificent section of dramatic, inspiring and unspoilt coastal trail. Lose yourself in isolation on this continuous panorama of stunning cliffs, hidden coves and remote golden beaches whilst passing through an historical tapestry of shipwrecks, frontier mining, literature and a Cornish people's struggle against the rugged Atlantic coastline.

Seals, kestrels, puffins and peregrines still occupy this dramatic and inspiring coastline and if you are here is both challenging and rewarding without exception on what is the toughest section of the South West Coast Path a seemingly endless rollercoaster of climbs and descents along the coastline.  Recover with cosy and welcoming overnight stays in idyllic fishing villages prepare you well for days gazing out in peaceful isolation over saw toothed cliffs and rocks, passing waterfalls that tumble over precipitous crags. A trail full of variety and surprises including King Arthur's stark and imposing Tintagel Castle Bronze Age rock carvings, the driftwood cliff huts of poets, the Museum of Witchcraft in Boscastle and mysteriously abandoned villages.  At the tail end of Devon overnight at Clovelly the most stunning fishing harbour in the region where the car is banned and your bags are moved up and down almost sheer cobbled alleys by sledge. With history & legend abounding there is something fascinating, unusual and surreal to encounter on every leg along with the ever rising anticipation of whether the next cove will be more beautiful and unspoilt than the last.

Ultimately this is shipwreck and smuggling country and as you traverse Hells Mouth, The Strangles, The Rumps, several Devils Holes and the Doom Bar it only adds to the atmosphere en route to Padstow. This walk is truly the most inspiring way to enter and immerse yourselves in the stunning lands of Cornwall past and present. With its scenery and history preserved and unique take your personal pilgrimage into the heart of Cornwall in the footsteps of Hardy, King Arthur, Betjemen and the Celtic peoples of many centuries past and present.

Your Route along the North Coast

Section 1. Westward Ho! to Clovelly  11 miles

You can see the rollercoaster of climbs and descents ahead of you on the Clovelly Ridge as you leave the flatlands of the North Devon dunes passing the chalets and rows of colourful beach huts to begin this section of walk that will finally take you on into the promised land .... Cornwall.

Following the doomed Westward Ho to Bideford railway, an impressive engineering feat that only survived 16 years, you soon start zig zag climbs through wild gorse up cliffs that start to rear up and tower over the dramatic pinnacles and strata formations that mark this stretch of the walk. The steep drops start with a descent to the beach at Babbacombe Mouth before a climb up Westacott Cliff following the trail as it picks its way through coastal woodlands of willow and hazel  ablaze with flowers particularly during the spring bluebells. Passing the remains of the Bronze Age earthworks at Peppercombe Castle after yet another dark descent through the dense undergrowth in Sloo Woods you emerge into the tiny cleft that is tucked between the woods and the waves know as Bucks Mills. This isolated and far flung hamlet seems more aligned with the sea than the shore.  with its castle like lime kilns built to process Welsh Lime brought in by boats that land (as they still do today) straight onto a rocky beach washed by the gushing stream that spurts down this narrow valley.

The wild, untouched and ancient woodland beyond Bucks Mills is glorious walking and eventually leads to The Hobby Drive a carriageway built in the early 19C as a grand landscaping scheme by St James Williams a delightful romp looping out and back through dense sycamore, oak, beech and rowan offering glimpses of Clovelly harbour ahead and long hidden bridges and memorials to the side. A gentle descent brings you to the heights above Devon’s finest fishing hamlet at Clovelly.

Click here to read about Clovelly and your overnight stop.

A steep return up the cobbled streets of Clovelly finds the path below the Tudor mansion at Clovelly Court and heading intomore wild woodland Clinging to the cliffs above the sea the forest hides an unique run of unusual shelters and stone summerhouses the most startling the wonderful Angels Wings memorial shelter built in 1826. You then have a choice the standard path heads down to Mouth Mill beach through the woods but the alternative “adventurous” path takes you through a mini rock tunnel past more stone summerhouses and out onto a cliff top platform with a viewpoint to make you breathless at a height of over 400ft up above the crashing waves. After climbing up to Gallantry Bower the path enters more forest seemingly endless zig zags on the way down to Mouth mill Beach, a setting from Kingsley's Water Babies where beyond the ruined lime kilns you can take in Blackchurch Rock with its two natural archways.  It’s a steady and dramatic walk onto imposing Hartland Point now a stark point thrusting itself out into the Atlantic in defiance. Pass Windbury Waterfall and the Iron Age Castle and round the strange mushroom shaped MOD Radar Tower before arriving at this loneliest of Lighthouses, 350ft high and perched on jagged black rocks under endless attacks by the waves. 

From the viewing platform its not only the local seals and distant Lundy Island you can see, below the twisted remains of the Johanna which sank here on New Years Eve in 1982 are being carved as you watch.  This is one of Devon’s most dramatic viewpoints. Here you are at the heart of this rough, battered and twisted coastline of russet rock, where bizarre folds and strata surround the walker. Time and again now you climb in and out of little coombes such as Smoothlands an ancient timeless hanging valley of gorse bracken and heather. More hidden valleys are crossed by exquisite stone bridges hung over racing brooks that all hurtle towards the rocks far below. So much so that At Blegburry Water the stream falls below you straight to the beach...and then magically disappears! Just before reaching Hartland in brief respite from the ferocious scenery you cross a serene stone bridge hidden in a patch of Woodland below the 12C Hartland Abbey before the final leg to Hartland Quay 

Click here to read about Hartland Quay and your overnight stop.

Section 3. Hartland Quay to Bude 16 miles (or 2 days of 8 miles)

Leaving Devon's final outpost at the exposed Hartland Quay you follow a challenging days walking up and down a range of isolated combes, ravines and cliff tops . This is border country passing the plunging waterfalls at Spekes Mill and the ancient Iron Age ramparts of Embury beacon. Celebrate as you cross finally into the ancient lands of Kernow (Cornwall) at the nature reserve of Marsland Mouth and on past the 70' waterfall at Litter Mouth. The day ends with the bizarre square fissure of Devils Hole as your backdrop to climbing stark and sheer Henna Cliff. Heading inland out of the wilds appears the atmospheric hamlet of Morwenstow for a fascinating overnight stop or an afternoon break isolated hospitality in the lands of Parson Hawkers and the Morwenstow Wreckers. Welcome to Cornwall.

Note: This section is a long days walking, many of our walkers opt to break the leg with an overnight at atmospheric Morwenstow giving two days of around 8 miles.

Click here to read about Morwenstow and your overnight stop.

You are now passing through true shipwreck country with over 150 ships lost on the jagged rocky outcrops between here and Bude. Perched above the cliffs you pause to visit Hawkers Driftwood Hut, his lookout for ships in trouble. The morning is towering cliff climbs and zigzagging cove descents with glorious views throughout, keep a sharp watch, this is Peregrine Falcon habitat. A brief return to the modern age as you pass the gigantic white satellite dishes dominating the landscape at Cleave Camp, the ears for GCHQ, before you drop into the rocky reefs and pools at idyllic Duckpool. During the afternoon some respite on a less strenuous section of path along the back of what seems to be a never ending line of dazzlingly sandy and enticing beaches to Bude. Enjoy a welcome overnight stay in this laid back costal town with all its facilities and attractions ... other than villages the next significant town is not until Padstow over 40 miles away.

Click here to read about Bude and your overnight stop.

Section 4. Bude to Crackington Haven 10 miles

Leaving Bude via its unusual sea lock it's a relaxing mornings walk passing Compass point with its Pepperpot Tower and panoramic views to Lundy Island, Tintagel and the great Tors of Dartmoor. On a broad grassy coastal path you pass through miles of golden Sand at Widemouth Bay in front of Black Rock, home to the ghost of Wrecker Featherstone banished there to make rope from its sands for eternity.

From here the walking gets progressively more and more demanding reaching smuggling country at Millock with its extraordinary zigzag rock strata formations (the Crackington Strata). Up on The Dizzard you pass its prehistoric dwarf oak and mountain ash copse, a unique bonsai forest stunted and twisted by the storms from the Atlantic. Traversing the aptly named Butterfly valley the day ends with a parade of hidden smugglers coves, coombes and waterfalls the final one at Aller Shoot before a steep descent to the welcoming valley and hamlet at Crackington Haven and its superb location right on the beach.

Click here to read about Crackington Haven as your overnight stop. 

Note that due to scarce accommodation you may stay in nearby Boscastle instead

Section 5. Crackington Haven to Tintagel 11.5 miles
or Crackington Haven to Boscastle 6.5 miles

Start the day ascending the infamous lizard like promontory know as the Cambeak, past the Northern Dor natural sea arch at Strangles Beach and then its up up up to the heights of High Cliff which at 731ft is the highest cliff on the whole South West Coast Path. Keep an ear open for the cries of the seals in Seals hole and maybe even spot them out on the rocks far below. At the Pentargon inlet you can glimpse the waterfall here as it crashes a stunning 120ft from the cliffs to the sea before you make your descent to the stunning village and harbour of Boscastle.

Click here for more information on Boscastle. Those on a more leisurely schedule can choose to overnight here allowing plenty of time to explore the harbour and inland area further also enjoying a longer visit to Tintagel castle tomorrow.

Enter King Arthur's Country as the trail gets more contortions and exhilarating by the mile with a series of precipitous plunging headlands and outcrops. Past Ladies Window with its dramatic and imposing outlook over Long island, a steep drop then traverses Rocky Valley a truly wonderful and energising ravine with intricate bronze age Labyrinth like carvings said to be 3,500 years old. Beyond the bizarre Elephant rock you finally arrive in the stunning evocative panorama at the imposing remains of King Arthur's Tintagel. Climb down to the beach and Merlin's Cave to gaze up in awe at the stark ruins clinging to the cliff tops above you before taking the long climb up to Tintagel itself and your overnight stop.

Click here to read about Tintagel as your overnight stop.

Section 6. Tintagel to Port Isaac 9 miles

Today enter a more recent industrial past and its challenging walking again with over 7 steep cliff top rises and valley descents before Port Isaac. Pass the 80ft pinnacle at Lanterdan Quarry in an area where fearless men were suspended down the sheer cliff faces on ropes to collect slate. At Donkeys hole you will see the end of the disused tunnel where the blindfolded beasts were used to bring up theslate from the almost impenetrable beach far below you. In contrast idyllic Trebarwith Sands, possibly Cornwall's finest beach with its golden sands and rocky natural amphitheatre.

Climbing "The Mountain" in the afternoon, home to Peregrines, Buzzard and Kestrel you are now in remote prospector country which supported stream panning for Cornish silver and gold. Finally reach Port Gaverne harbour with its old cob walled fish cellars which in its heyday was preserving and salting over 1.5 million fish a week. Just beyond, Port Isaac wedged into the cliffs with its charming whitewashed cottages is your reward for today's tough walking.

Click here to read about Port Isaac as an overnight stop.

Section 7. Port Isaac to Padstow 12 miles

Leaving Port Isaac you quickly come to Port Quinn, virtually abandoned in the early years of the last century you can still evidence of its derelict cottages. Tales of a terrible storm at sea, a smuggling disaster, even a result of fishing on the Sabbath, no verifiable reason exists for the village that died, though a decline in fish stocks may be the more likely answer!

On beyond more remoteness with Lundy Hole, a deep chasm left after the power of the sea demolished a cave roof. Locally it's said to be a terrible hole made by the devil as he jumped to avoid a comb flung at him by a frightened St Minver. Past the gothic folly at Doyden Pont to Pentire point where the extensive views of the Camel Estuary and the offshore Mouls rocks are said to be the best on the whole 630 mile South West Coast Path.

Right on the wild headland don't miss the twin peaks of the Rumps where there is always the chance to spot grey seals or maybe even puffin. Outstanding remains of an Iron Age fort are protected here by ramparts and ditches at the base of this unusual fishtail shaped headland.

On into the Camel Estuary passing the Bronze Age Barrow at Brea Hill and the chance to visit the little crooked spired church at St Endoc, burial place of John Betjeman where the vicar had to enter via a skylight due to church being besieged by shifting sands.

Your coastal pilgrimage ends on the 600 year old passenger ferry to Padstow crossing the Doom bar a sandbank said to be cursed by a mermaid wounded by a fisherman who thought she was a seal. As you reflect on your journey spare a thought for the 300 vessels sunk on the bank as well as the 3 lifeboats lost trying to save them. Alight in the bustle of Padstow for an overnight stay in this cosmopolitan centre with plenty of options to celebrate, from eating out at Rick Steins to that time honoured favourite of fish and chips on the harbour wall.

Click here to read about Padstow as an overnight stop.

2 day extension crossing Cornwall on The Saints Way

Now why not sample some of Cornwall's inland scenery? Click here to read about extending your walk on the 2 day cross Cornwall route The Saints Way running from Padstow to Fowey on the south Coast.

North Coast Walking Options and Bookings:

Have a good look at the walking route description and decide which sections you want to walk. We can accommodate whatever sections and overnight stops you want for as many days as you want to be out on the trail.

There are no fixed departure dates and you can travel any day subject to availability of accommodation, walking for as long as you choose. Walking unescorted from location to location you have the freedom to set your own pace and the option to build in extra days for further exploring or relaxing!

Standard Holiday and Short Break Examples - 4 to 7 nights

Remember we are flexible enough to provide whatever route you want from 2 to 14 nights.

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