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You are here: Home > South West Coast Path Holidays > Brixham to Lyme Regis
Trail Introduction
This section of coast path brings the walker through the best of South Devon’s coastal resorts via a switchback of coastal trail alongside the dramatic red rocks, stacks and headlands of East Devon culminating in the heart of the World Heritage site at the Dorset Jurassic Coast. Along the way you will enjoy somewhat easier grades of walking at times yet without sacrificing anything on views, history or variety of scenery. The trail still has its severe sections with plenty of the usual climbing above the cliffs and descending to unspoilt little coves, passing from lush wooded countryside to wild rocky coastal outcrops. A significant plus is the excellent public transport, accommodation and eating opportunities along the way which lends this section well to a number of short
 break options or a week long walking holiday that builds in inspiration from the gentle blue bays and woodlands of Torbay to a crescendo of geological drama and rollercoaster path through the start of the Jurassic Coast sections of coast path ending in the Fossil Frenzy that is Lyme Regis.On the way wander a contrast of absorbing geological and rock formations, expansive dunes and estuary bursting with rare fauna and birdlife into a land where huge landslips have created hidden jungle worlds in the undercliff supporting a huge diversity of rare wilderness and wildlife in unique sections of trail truly unlike anything else on the 630 miles of coast path. Sprinkled between all this are pretty Regency style seaside resorts offering comfortable and atmospheric overnight stays in bays and coves of rounded pebbles and sand where fishing boats are still hauled up with the crab pots at night on to the beach below you whilst you tuck into the fresh catch in some of the best restaurants along the South Coast.
 For many the likes of Torquay, Teignmouth and Dawlish bring memories of childhood holidays flooding back and these once fashionable resorts flocked to by the Georgians and Victorians retain their charm, history and quirky appeal for those encountering them on their walking adventure. Then from Exmouth onwards you enter the wilder Jurassic coastline , England’s first Natural World Heritage Site, where 155km of coastline reveals over 185 million years of the earth’s history in the rocky arches and stacks, red and chalk cliffs, landslips, coves and boulders that line every step along the coastal path.
 Day 1 BRIXHAM – BABBACOMBE - 13 miles – Moderate
Grade: 13 miles moderate walking - (6 hours average walking time without breaks)
River Crossings: None
Torbay or not Torbay that is the question!
The walk today takes you round the blue waters and 20 odd beaches of the semi circular Torbay. Everyone it seems has an image of Torquay – often rather unfairly that of Fawlty Towers or an Agatha Christie inspired retirement home and for those hell bent on rushing past this section then summer ferries link Brixham with Torquay along with plenty of local buses so you can miss it out and start at Day 2. But our view? Those prepared to keep an open mind should walk the path and will be surprised, enjoying a stimulating introduction and rather amusing wander.
 Torbay is as much a part of the history and scenery of the South Devon Coastline as the rocks and stacks to come and to miss it out is to lose this context to the path. Walk it and you will get in an easy first day walking but still cover a respectable 13 miles which will set you up well for the remoter sections of path beyond Torbay. What you won’t be expecting is to spend parts of the day passing through impressive rocky outcrops, ornamental coastal gardens and parks, gentle azure coloured bays backed with golden sands and appealing continental looking seascapes. Whilst there is a section along the seafront between Paignton and Torquay Harbour, this in itself has much to amuse as you follow the Agatha Christie Mile and watch those heading down Paignton Pier a true British Seaside Institution. Away from this short section are the great vistas of Torbay heralded as the English Riviera by those who were destined to miss the Grand Tour of Europe by the Napoleonic Wars and the charm of the place lined by elegant Georgian mansions and mock Italian villas is without doubt best entered by, encountered through and left behind by those walking through it on the coast path. Brixham to BabbacombeFor those ready to walk round the bay you leave the Statue of William of Orange guarding the busy fishing harbour at Brixham before taking a path through the old gun placements at Battery Gardens in an area with huge naval significance running from the Spanish Armada through to D Day – pause to learn more at the Brixham Battery Heritage Centre just off the path. Pleasant wooded descents this morning through The Grove bring gentle cliff climbs and falls through pretty beaches at Churlston Cove and over the shingle bank lining Elberry Cove. Churlston Point opens out into wide grassy expanses with the first grand views of Torbay leading the walker over Broadsands Beach to follow the steam railway line from Dartmouth into Goodrington Sands now passing through the first set of lush ornamental gardens clinging around the red cliffs of Roundham Head.
 Into bustling Paignton esplanade which will bring a smile with its classic English Pier a town based on salt marsh, sand dunes..... and cabbages before more welcoming seaside gardens are entered at Hollicome Park. The tarmac promenade into Torquay harbour is quick and straightforward alongside sandy beaches at times or on the sea wall. Historic Torre Abbey provides an interesting diversion through grassy open spaces just off the main sands, this place is now a museum and art gallery - originally founded back in 1196 and a former “home” for prisoners from the Spanish Armada – today an oasis of calm in the centre of Torquay and a great lunch stop. Rock Walk brings more palm gardens as you reach the impressive cosmopolitan harbour and marina of modern Torquay crossing the Millennium Footbridge to pass the D Day launching point at Beacon Quay. For those who want to know more about the coastline drop in here at the Torquay Living Coasts Centre packed with information on the coastline to come with a superb aviary of coastal birdlife which will help with your identification of the wildfowl on future days. Your short urban encounter over, the path now starts to climb and fall through more coastal gardens and grassy lookout plateaus such as Daddyhole (Devils Hole) Plain while offshore stands impressive Thatchers Rock and other pinnacles leading the walker onwards to the stunning Hopes Nose Rocks. You now follow the Bishops Walk sanctioned for its views by the Bishop of Exeter back in 1840 so he could look to sea over the Ore Stone where you will spot Devon’s largest Kittiwake colony. Now enter high level woodland at Black Head and the jagged rocky headlands at Anstey’s Cove before a steep wooded path brings you to the twin beaches at Babbacombe and Oddicombe where the route uses a run of wooden cliff bridges and walkways to reach the famous 240ft cliff railway which scythes its way through the line of dark red, tree covered cliffs. With good accommodation options away from the bustle of Torquay spend your first night in the wooded coves of North Torbay with good dining options and pleasant views before you start the switchback climbing on the trail tomorrow.
 Day 2 BABBACOMBE – EXMOUTH - 14 miles – Strenuous to Easy Grade: 6.5 miles Strenuous & 8 miles easy - 6.5 hours average walking time without breaks)
River Crossings: River Teign and River Exe both by ferry
The walking steps up several gears straight away today as you leave the English Riviera for sweeping red sandstone panoramas looking ahead towards Lyme Bay, a marked difference in scenery for those who have made it here after weeks of walking the hard granite rocks around Cornwall.
The rollercoaster trail rises and descends from the off with the walker enjoying lush wooded paths traversing the Valley of the Rocks with steep twisting steps and a precarious rocky ledge to negotiate, the aptly named Goat Path, before reaching Maidencombe a pleasant thatched cottage village and beach with the usual options for cream teas or a swimming break. A steep zigzagging trail in and out of the woods above the cliffs follows, until the path eventually breaks into open fields with inspiring views over Teignmouth, and after climbing along the sandstone cliffs you arrive at The Ness, the iconic and atmospheric wood topped Rocky Stack guarding the entrance to Teighmouth and Shaldon. An 80m tunnel cut through the rock here reveals a great swimming beach for those wanting to cool off before you catch the Ferry from Shaldon to Teignmouth across the pretty River Teign estuary. This crossing has been in place since the 13th Century though don’t be put off by the ferry boat claiming to be the oldest in the country – we are pretty sure it’s not the original one! The next section brings you to a short run of classic south Devon resorts and there is something quite engaging about flirting with these places briefly whilst passing through on the coast path, taking in the grand history of this part of the coastline and its visitors before leaving the bustle behind to head back out onto the walking trail.
Teignmouth offers a good lunch stop with plenty of facilities and two pleasant beachy areas along the promenade and Victorian Pier. It has an unfortunate history - razed by the Danes, rebuilt, then burnt down in 14th Century, attacked by the French in the 17th C and even hit by the Germans in World War 2....The walk takes you through the heart of this fashionable 19thC Resort passing the Lifeboat Station, Museum and pier as you make your way along the sea wall.
 From this point on you start to cross swords with the impressive coastal railway – the mainline from London and a hugely impressive masterpiece of engineering created by none other than Isambard Brunel. It was here he experimented with running his audacious Atmospheric railway run by nothing more than pressurised air and an internal vacuum. Whilst the project failed the line remains, one of the UK’s classic train journeys clinging to the edge of the coast and sweeping past crashing waves through a run of 5 tunnels which pierce the red cliffs and skirt the impressive red sandstone stacks that now appear as constant companions to the walker along the coastline here. Dawlish brings its notoriety as the home of the bizarre black swans which you will spot gliding around Dawlish Water in the centre of the town. A much loved location for writers including Jane Austen and Dickens (this was his birthplace of Nicholas Nickleby), the small fishing village grew around the railway and if the tides work for you after pausing here you will be able to walk the remainder of the route to the River Exe along the dramatic sea wall vying with the precarious railine to Exmouth.
 At Dawlish Warren in complete contrast to the resorts, the route enters Dawlish Warren Nature Reserve and designated Site of Special Scientific Interest with superb vistas now over a semi wilderness of grass, reed lands, sand and mud flats at the mouth of the mighty river Exe. Those with time before the ferry to Exmouth can take a circular walk to the end of the sandy spit here and enjoy its blue flag graded beaches. Wander through rare fauna and flora amongst the unprecedented levels of migrating birdlife which abound here on the mudflats and dunes all of which can be stalked from the public bird hide and visitors centre on route – this is one of the UK’s premier water based bird watching reserves with in excess of 20,000 feathered visitors coming through during migrations. You finish the walk today by catching the Starcross Passenger Ferry from the old Wooden Pier which leaves by one of Brunel’s old Atmospheric Train Pumping Stations and the weary walker enjoys an end of day cruise across this beautiful expanse of estuary to arrive at Exmouth and golden sands backed with rows of splendid Georgian Houses shrouded in Napoleonic Heritage. Once again enjoy great restaurants and ambience at your overnight stay here at a fashionable location that is the entrance to the Jurassic Coast. Grade: 6 miles moderate & 7 miles strenuous - 6 hours average walking time without breaks
River Crossings: None
Today’s walk continues through the heart of the Red Cliff Lands with superb coastal panoramas throughout the day. It’s almost shameful to leave the superb 2 miles of golden sand dunes at Exmouth as you climb to reach Orcombe Point and the geoneedle monument officially marking the start of the Jurassic Coastline. The dramatic red cliffs here are 250 million years old and reflect a former desert habitat of salt lakes, lagoons and dunes. Skirting the firing range drop down to Littleham Cove and The Floors before more climbing follows along grassy cliff lines through gorse and downlands as you top out over West Down Beacon at an impressive 430 feet.
 At the village of Budleigh Salterton you arrive down a wooded pine slope to find another very pretty and unspoilt Georgian resort with its shingle beach of hard quartzite pebbles, lined with small fishing boats. Named after the salt pans based here where monks evaporated seawater to produce the salt, you can pause at the Budleigh Salterton Museum and grab some lunch. Completely different to this morning’s scenery you now need to traverse the River Otter, this lush and secluded estuary managed by Devon Wildlife Trust offers fine saltwater bird watching with viewing platforms and hides amongst tall pines as you walk on a raised inland trail built by Napoleonic Prisoners of war to cross the White Bridge over what was formally a small inland harbour.
Returning to the coast from your inland diversion, pass through the smuggling past at Brandy Head to reach Ladram bay with its much photographed red rock stacks and caves, a sanctuary for the colonies of Fulmars and Cormorants. A steep climb follows through trees, out to the summit of High Peak and then Peak Hill, both holding sites dating back to Neolithic Settlements along with superb inland views as far as mighty Dartmoor. The inevitable descent into what the locals call the Sidmouth Gap comes to reach Sidmouth Village and some well earned rest. An entertaining spot with on the one hand its promenade and beach huts charm whilst inland a complete contrast with gothic and castle like mansions revealing the place’s history as the holiday destination of the aristocratic classes which included a young Queen Victoria who spent childhood holidays on the sand and shingle beaches below the collision of Red cliffs and white chalk streaks.
 Day 4 SIDMOUTH – BEER/SEATON - 9 miles – Severe to strenuousGrade: 10 miles Severe/ Strenuous - 6 hours average walking time without breaks
River Crossings: None
Dramatic scenery is earnt today as the cretaceous rocks start to appear on what is a strenuous but rewarding day’s rollercoaster walking through the cliffs and coves. After crossing the tiny River Sid on the ornate footbridge you have four energy sapping climbs and descents through valleys that cut through the Jurassic Coastline to contend with. The first, the climb to the top of Sidmouth Gap at Salcombe Hill 500 feet above the waves, is marked with the well named Frog Stone and the Norman Lockyear Observatory. It’s a long descent on steps to the beach at Salcombe Mouth before yet another challenging ascent this time zigzagging above bizarre green tinted cliffs at Dunscombe. All along this section you can still spot small piles of flint waste thought to go back to Neolithic Settlers. Pass through the Wildlife reserve at Weston Mouth and one of those glorious secluded beaches to a run of hairpin descents, remote coves, wild flower meadow and steep cliff climbs including the remains of an iron age hill fort near Littlecombe Hollow in amongst abandoned chalk and lime pits.
A pleasant distraction on the route today is the tranquil village of Branscombe with its Mill, tea rooms, working smithy and pub set around a huddle of cob and thatch cottages in a beautiful and gentle valley. Don’t miss stunning St Winifred’s Church complete with sections of medieval wall paintings and its three tier pulpit and priests hole. All this a far cry from Branscombe’s most recent history when the MSC Napoli beached below the village in 2007 and spilled its load leading to anarchic scenes with an influx of modern day bounty hunters who made off with everything from BMW motorbikes to container loads of nappies. Looters or Modern Day Wreckers you can decide as you reach the same beach on the coastal path.
 Approaching dramatic Beer Head late in the day a real treat waits, as you enter the rather unearthly and burrowing path that traverses the Hooken Landslip an area where the cliff collapsed back in the 18th Century leaving a chalk undercliff and wide trench. The whole area is now a draw for both fossil hunters and those seeking the rare fauna that abounds in the chalky undercliff. A final climb from the landslip trail brings you to Beer Head and you have now left the red cliffs for white chalk country and rock now from the Cretaceous Period guides you down to the former smuggling haven of Beer. A breathtaking location this place managed to shed its shady past to earn respectability as a centre for lace production a craft, introduced by its Dutch immigrants. Here you will overnight in a narrow cove wedged below the Chalky Heights, a place where the fishing boats are still launched from the pebble beach and you can explore the famous Beer Stone Quarry Caves a subterranean treat, started by the Romans, used by Beer’s more notorious smugglers and well worth a visit before your final days walk to Lyme Regis. Day 5 BEER/SEATON – LYME REGIS - 8.5 miles – Moderate Grade: 7 miles moderate - 4 hours average walking time without breaks
River Crossings: None
With a break from the cliff top views it’s the serene River Axe Estuary flanked by flocks of curlew, sandpipers and egret that is crossed this morning using the Old Toll Bridge, the former Toll Gates no more - burnt on the beaches by the fed up locals at the turn of the last century. The bulk of today’s walk then is truly unique through one of the most unusual terrains of the entire South West Coast Path as it enters the Downlands Undercliff. A National Nature Reserve since 1955 of over 800 acres, this is a jungle-like untouched land where the geology and the scrub vegetation has literally run riot following the Christmas Day landslip of 1839 when the land slipped towards the sea after storms. For those living here at the time a huge section of coastline literally fell off the end of their world, apparently leaving a “terrible devil like stench of brimstone in its wake (!)”. Overnight an 800m long abyss appeared, so dramatic that a new island was formed by it which the terrified locals named Goat Island.
The path twists and turns through the maze like tunnels of undergrowth beside the chasm in a land home to over 80 species of bird and unique in the fauna found here. Virtually untouched by man for over 150 years, badgers, foxes and roe deer roam free through ivy covered ash, sycamore and hazel which in turn fight with areas of thick fern and gorse. It’s a bizarre walk with periodic views from the jungle opening out onto a twisted, contorted and untouched coastline that is all but impossible to get down to. Eventually you exit the dark undercliff to emerge above the coastline with views now of the new challenges ahead on the horizon towards the mountainous “Golden Cap” and panoramas as far as the Isle of Portland.
 A final descent today brings you to Lyme Regis with its 13th Century crescent shaped harbour wall – The Cob – probably the simplest and most atmospheric harbour Quay along this coast. It’s where the Duke of Monmouth arrived in 1685 though these days better known as the spot where The French Lieutenants Woman stood and stared out to sea in John Fowles’ tale. Jane Austen based Persuasion on the town, though amongst the many fossil hunters who arrive here today it is Mary Anning the local girl who lived, collected and inspired generations of scavengers from here who was the most famous resident. She worked tirelessly on her finds unearthing countless fossil gems including the first complete plesiosaur in 1824. The Lyme Regis Museum, like the town, is full of fossil information and guided fossil hunts can be arranged from here and in the Land of the Fossil at the heart of the Jurassic coast it’s hard to avoid getting swept up in the Fossil Fever with a speculative wander along the beaches and rock pools nearby.
Fast Walkers Route - 4 days and 5 nights - By walking Sidmouth to Lyme Regis in one day (days 4 and 5 of the std itinerary), you can complete the section in 4 days walking with an average of 14 miles per day. The final day is a long one of 17 miles however and you need to allow around 7.5 hours walking time. Short Walking Breaks - South Devon Jurassic Coastline Exmouth to Lyme Regis For those wanting a short break on this section of path we would suggest Exmouth to Lyme Regis which is all within the Jurassic Coast Hertitage area. This offers the most interesting walking of this section taking in the Undercliff Path, Ladram Bay and Axmouth with some great overnight stops at the likes of Beer and Sidmouth. (CLICK HERE) to review the walking sections in more detail. This can be done over anything from 2 to 4 days (see the above itineraries as a guideline). Please contact the office for a quote and further information or our ideas. Walk direction and grade You can walk this section of coast path in either direction and we can provide luggage transfers to suit, however when there are prevailing winds these are normally form the South West so it’s best to have these behind you. For that reason we advise walking in the direction shown from Brixham to Lyme Regis but are happy to work things in reverse if it suits your plans. Most of the standard guidebook information works from Brixham to Lyme Regis though we ensure you have enough information to follow the route whichever way you walk it. Getting to and from the trail To arrive at Brixham/Torquay - Trains run to nearby Paignton (3.5 hours from London) and you can take a regular bus (20 mins) or a taxi (we can book or provide numbers) to reach Brixham or Torquay. To depart from Lyme Regis - A short 20 min bus ride on a regular service to Axminster Station (or a taxi which we can book or provide numbers for). From Axminster direct trains run to London taking around 2.5 hours. Arriving by Car - We can advise on long stay car parking at either end of the trail. Using public transport the journey back to your car is around 3 hours using bus and train via Exeter. Please contact us if you want more information about arriving and departing including information.
Accommodation We use a large range of accommodation along the South West Coast Path, plenty of village Inns lend themselves to the routes where you can stay and eat in the same place. There are also often small guest houses and B&B’s as an option. For those who want to use very smart hotels and Country Houses for some or all the route there are some superb options though they come at a price. In essence if you want to walk the route in style let us know and we can advise.
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